Q: Is Spanish food the same as tapas?
A: No, not really, but in the UK the two terms have become pretty much synonymous. The origin of tapas, the ancient practice of a bar providing small pieces of food to patrons to cover their drinks and keep out dirt and insects, is now well known and a bit of a cliché. Tapas are just one part of the food culture in Spain and have been interpreted differently in the UK to suit tastes.
Q: So what is the difference between tapas in the UK and in Spain?
A: Essentially the same typical dishes are present. Readers will probably be familiar with tortilla de patatas, patatas bravas, and gambas al ajillo and the like, but the concept is different in the two countries. In Spain, tapas are a kind of appetizer to be enjoyed with drinks (but not necessarily free anymore). Portions are very small and tapas would rarely be considered lunch or dinner, unless an evening of bar hopping was going to last longer than expected! In the UK, of course, eating tapas means eating out, sitting at a table and ordering lots of small plates to share. I think this is mainly because there isn’t a ‘space’ for Spanish style tapas in UK daily timetables – finish work then eat! So, of course, going out for tapas in the UK means going out for Spanish food, where you’ll find the same 20 or so dishes in every Spanish restaurant (often referred to as a “tapas bar”, although Spanish-savvy readers know that they are anything but that).
Q: So, what is Spanish cuisine beyond tapas?
A: For me, Spanish cuisine is a style rather than a collection of dishes, although of course the most common Spanish dishes are now famous throughout the world and are often presented as a representation of Spanish gastronomy. More than anything, it often makes very little sense to talk about ‘Spanish’ cuisine as there is such a wide variation in styles and ingredients from one province to another.
Q: But presumably there are some basic themes shared from one region to another?
A: Absolutely. If you look at a national gastronomic style in terms of ingredients and technique, it is easy to see the commonalities of Spanish cuisine. In terms of ingredients, the keywords are fresh and basic. Few dishes are based on complex combinations of subtle flavors and exotic herbs and spices. The basic ingredients of many dishes are onion, garlic, olive oil and perhaps tomato. Add to that a limited range of herbs and spices: paprika, saffron, parsley, rosemary, bay leaf, etc. Cured meats from northern Spain such as chorizo are a common addition, but not necessarily the main focus of the dish; instead, look for simple, fresh cuts of beef, chicken, pork, and fish and/or shellfish. Finally, do not forget the basic accompaniments such as legumes and rice.
Q: And technique?
A: Spanish food is often considered oily, and not without reason. Frying in olive oil is perhaps the main cooking technique, along with grilling (grilling) and roasting (roasting) meats. But with excellent extra virgin olive oils and judicious use, frying adds a distinctive touch to many Spanish dishes.
Q: So if you were to create an ad hoc ‘Spanish style’ dish for dinner tonight, what would it be?
A: Well here’s one I did a couple of weeks ago that worked great. In a heavy-bottomed skillet, heat minced garlic in premium olive oil just enough to remove heat. Fry up some cubes of pancetta, bacon, ham, or even chorizo, then add a can of pre-cooked beans. In another pan, lightly cook some green asparagus tips, I use a small covered pan with just a tablespoon or two of water so they steam instead of boiling, and then add them to the mix. Drizzle the batch with lemon, more olive oil if needed, and some chopped fresh parsley. Serve with some fresh crusty bread for a great lunch. It may not be an authentic Spanish dish, but it certainly has the right flair it could be.